Wax, Pomade, or Clay? The Modern Gentleman's Definitive Guide to Choosing the Right Product for Your Style

The final flourish of any great haircut happens when the right product meets the right style. Yet, standing in front of a shelf laden with creams, pastes, waxes, and clays, the choice can feel overwhelming. Many gentlemen walk out of the barbershop with a precision cut, only to lose its shape a week later because they used a heavy pomade on fine hair or a matte clay on a style that demands shine.

At The Brothers Barbers, we understand that our commitment to high-class precision cuts extends far beyond the chair.¹ It includes ensuring you are equipped with the knowledge and the highest quality hair products to maintain that sharp look every single day.¹ We believe the product should be an extension of the cut itself.

Here is the definitive guide, crafted by our expert London barbers, to help you understand the three core categories of men’s styling products—and how to select the perfect match for your hair type and desired finish.

The Three Pillars of Male Grooming

The majority of men’s hair products fall into three distinct categories: Pomade, Wax, and Clay. Knowing their differences is the first step to mastering your morning routine.

Pillar 1: The Pomade (The Classic Finisher)

Pomades are the original gentleman's styling tool, having shaped the hair of icons for decades. They offer the highest level of control and hold, making them ideal for structured, traditional styles.

• Best For: Classic cuts, slick-backs, side-parts, or high-shine pompadours.

• Hold: Medium to High (excellent for taming unruly or thick hair).

• Finish: Medium to High Shine.

• Pro Tip: Modern pomades often come water-based, meaning they offer strong hold but wash out easily. Avoid old-school oil-based pomades if you want to prevent greasy build-up.

Pillar 2: The Wax (The Everyday Texture Tool)

Wax is the versatile workhorse of the grooming cabinet. Waxes are petroleum or beeswax-based, offering a pliable, medium hold that doesn't harden, allowing for restyling throughout the day.

• Best For: Medium-length cuts, messy crops, or styles that need texture without stiffness.

• Hold: Low to Medium (provides shape and definition without the rigid grip of pomade).

• Finish: Low to Natural Sheen.

• Pro Tip: If your hair is prone to falling flat, apply wax primarily to the ends of the hair, rather than the roots, to prevent weighing down the volume.

Pillar 3: The Clay (The Modern Volume Builder)

Clays are the top choice for the modern gentleman seeking a highly natural, voluminous look. True hair clay is mineral-based (often containing Bentonite or Kaolin), which allows it to draw out impurities and excess oil, creating lift and thickness.

• Best For: Thinning hair (it adds volume and grip), highly textured styles, or maximizing height.

• Hold: Medium to Strong (clays often feel heavier, providing exceptional foundational grip).

• Finish: Ultra-Matte (zero shine, creating the most natural, "untouched" look).

• Pro Tip: Clays should be emulsified (rubbed until warm and smooth) between your palms before applying evenly through the roots to achieve maximum lift and longevity.

How to Select Your Perfect Match

Choosing the right product comes down to two simple factors: your hair type and the final look you are trying to achieve.

Factor 1: Assess Your Hair Type

If Your Hair Is...	Choose This Product...	Rationale
Thick & Coarse	Pomade or Strong Clay	You require high hold to keep shape and prevent hair from springing back into its natural state.
Fine & Thinning	Light Wax or Clay	Clay adds volume and lift while coating the shaft, making the hair look visibly thicker. Avoid heavy products that flatten.
Medium & Straight	Wax or Water-Based Pomade	These allow for maximum versatility, enabling you to switch between a textured finish and a clean, defined style.
Wavy or Curly	Cream or Wax	Wavy hair benefits from moisturizing products that control frizz without eliminating natural texture.

Factor 2: Define Your Desired Finish

If You Want...	Choose This Product...	Example Style
High Shine & Slickness	Pomade (Water-Based)	Classic Slick-Back, Executive Contour
Natural Texture & Volume	Clay or Matte Wax	Textured Crop, Messy Quiff
Light Hold & Softness	Hair Cream or Light Wax	Loose Quiff, longer scissor cut styles

The Brothers Barbers Difference: Quality, Consultation, and Comfort

At our London barbershop, the product recommendation is an integral part of your experience. We stock a carefully curated selection of the industry's highest quality brands that have been tried and tested by our experts.²

During your service, as you relax in one of our antique leather chairs, your barber won't just ask what you want; they will consult you on your hair density, cowlicks, and daily routine.¹ We then use the precise product that best suits your new style, ensuring you know exactly how to replicate that fresh-cut look at home. Whether you're enjoying the perfect precision cut or a classic wet shave, we pair every service with our signature ambiance, including a complimentary glass of whiskey.¹

Don't let the wrong product undermine your style. Trust the expertise of The Brothers Barbers to guide your look from the moment you leave the shop until your next visit.

Ready for a new cut and a bespoke product consultation? Secure your expert appointment at our Southwark location today and leave with the perfect style and the perfect product.